August 28-29 The first two days

The first two days

Thomas Wolf (not to be confused with the younger) aptly observed that on “can’t go home again. The first day of our journey was not so much intended to disprove this, but rather simply if I could dig up anyone from the old days.

Day one would be noon start. We could pack and load and only have to get to Champaign, Ill. It would be an easy five hour drive and I wanted to make sure we would have time to stop in Yates City the next day before catching the train in Galesburg. I remember eating at Alexander’s steak house and wanted to return. The night’s lodging a La Quinta was based on price not performance. It was a clean well-lighted place as Ernest would say.

Alexander’s is one of those Midwest oddities. Indeed I have only seen them in Illinois and Iowa. They feature a fridge full of steaks and chops with a huge open pit grill. They typically serve the salad and beverages, you prepare the food. It had been twenty years since we had been to such an eatery and I just wanted to relive that experience.

The next morning we rose in leisure. My first duty was to get coffee for She Who Must Be Obeyed and then had breakfast at Denny’s. Not exactly Tiffany's but good hearty Midwestern pancakes for SWMBO and a very good spicy sausage for me. The staff were all decked out in Illini gear even though they had fired their coach Beckman the previous day. Having been born in the Land of Lincoln there was a special affinity to the Orange and Blue because a former coach of my High School, long before my time , took our colors and our song and made them work for the University of Illinois. Perhaps the only instance where a high school rendition became the rallying cry for the state institution.

The two hour drive west brought back memories of the trek made twice a week during my first year teaching. I drove over to Bloomington to attend library classes at Illinois State to obtain my librarian’s certification. Then in 1980 I began going to Rosary to get an accredited library degree. All those wonderful skills William Urban and Richard Lever gave me at Monmouth College were put the test. I have always loved learning and library skill was not the struggle it was for some. Cruising I-74 reminded me of the early road warrior routine.

As a rookie teacher I had worn this route to death between Elmwood and Normal obtaining 33 of 36 hours towards a Master’s Degree in School Librarianship form Illinois State that I never finished. It did provide the credit I needed for a School Librarian's Certificate. I switched gears getting a degree from Rosary - a degree accredited by the American Library Association. The stops along this road were a well-worn memory.

The Peoria By Pass was a big deal when they built it but we chose to drive through the middle of town on a Saturday morning. I think it is the first time I have ever been through there sans yellow cone or any remnant of construction. It is a striking view when you clear the top of the hill and the river valley dominated by the World Headquarters of Caterpillar Tractor command the presence as they once did the local economy. Living in Elmwood in the 70's everybody worked at Caterpillar.

The Apartment in Elmwood, Second floor on the right

Forty years ago I took my first job in a school district with 300 kids K-12. In hindsight it was kismet. Yates City opened my eyes and taught me a gazillion life lessons. We lived in the next town over Elmwood, and because I only made $11K per year – and only got nine paychecks – I worked on a gas station on weekends and drove the school bus and coached five girls’ sports. What did I need free time for anyway?

The house on Elm Street In Elmwood - Becky's first house

West of town the rolling hills had not changed. My first mission was try to find the Miller Clan. A long time ago I had coached their eldest daughter to a Grade School State Championship in the high jump. I had the privilege to coach a lot of great kids in Yates City and to find the Miller's and thank them for the wonderful memories was in the design of this adventure.

Turning off I-74 my memory was they lived on County Line Road so I came down Ill 78 to where i thought they lived. Venturing south for three miles then heading west again for a mile then south again I was having no luck. SWMBO wasn't thrilled with the Dorothy and Todo-esque clouds of dust we raised. Finally in desperation I stopped a north bound pickup truck and asked the driver if he could help.

After listening to my description he knew exactly whom I was seeking. In even greater irony I had taught his daughter Deanna as well and he served on the school board after my departure. He offered to show me the way and as I followed him it was ironic that I had been a quarter mile away on my initial approach.

Just south of the homestead two men and a boy were sawing timber into boards. I pulled into the driveway under there cautious stare. I got out of my car asking on approach if indeed this was the Miller abode. With a nod of acknowledgement I asked if he was Dennis with another positive acknowledgement. I explained who I was and he didn't have a clue. Inquiring if his folks still lived in the house he confirmed but when I asked if I might say hello he indicated they weren't well enough to see visitors. I asked if Tracy were still in Eureka, the last place I knew where she lived. No he said, she had moved on to Champaign. I left my card asking him to have her email me the next time he saw her.

My daughter Rebecca Ann was born there. Dale Crozier owned “Dale’s Standard Service”that gainfully employed me on Saturday and Sunday. We had our Christmas Party in July because we had the only wrecker for twenty miles and the need for a wrecker at night was far less likely in July than December.

Dale's Standard Service now houses the True Value 

I lived above the laundromat next to the gas station then moved a block away to a quaint little run down two bedroom hour with a yard for Becky to play in. A serious Tornado ripped through the town in 2010 and changed it drastically. It changed the landscape, although they appear to have recovered in style. When I lived there Dale’s Standard Service was on the western corner with Daly insurance and a laundromat. Dale’s is now a True Value Hardware Store and Daley has moved to the Eastern corner.

Jordan’s Mobil Gas Station was still catty-corner from the new True Value and I stopped in. It was still owned by Dave but run by his son. One of the locals informed me Danny Crozier had died about five years ago from Cancer. I understood all too well what cancer could do.

I drove the hop – skip and jump over to Yates City. IT didn’t’ appear to have changed much and although the kids had been gone from the school for decades the buildings still stood.

It was a simple life full of work and watching the kids grow up. That is my moist poignant memory. Kids came in as ugly little ducklings and learned and grew up into self-sufficing, and for the most part, pleasant adults. Chuck Herridge was the superintendent, and was one of my great mentors. Willie Wise was the principal, and ended up being a good friend.

I took a look one loop around town and headed west on Illinois 8 headed west for Galesburg and Amtrak. While living there once a month we would drive to Galesburg which was the “big city”. They had a decent grocery and a Sears and JC Penny. It was only fifteen miles from Monmouth where the College in the Middle of the Cornfields was my alma matter. Becky was born on Seminary Street just up from the train station.

Driving the gravel roads made a mess of the Tahoe so the first thing we did was find a car wash. A clean Chevy is a happy Chevy.

Galesburg for a long time was rather unique. For a town of it had both BNSF (CB&Q for the Old Timers) and an Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe (AT&SF) Railroad depots. The old CB&Q had major rail yards in town and it was the first place freight was ever humped and as early as 1885 employed five hundred with more than 850 folk now. Amtrak still uses it as crew change point.

When the railroads merged in 1996 they moved all passenger operations to Seminary Street and four Amtrak routes use the facilities. Amtrak claims more than 100,000 people use it every year. I use it because I can detrain there and drive home before the Cardinal leaves Chicago. Conversely I can get the best part of the day off westbound journeys. Did I mention the parking was free?

We got to the station at 3 PM an hour early for the departure. The new structure is nice, don’t get me wrong, but I also fondly remember the old one, particularly the CBQ. My memory is the owners of the structure, on Mulberry Street just tore it down in the middle of the night during the 1980’s. On my list of Crimes Against Humanity.

We had yet to have lunch, and on the advice of other TA folks we gave the Packinghouse, which is only a good five iron north of Amtrak station, a try. SWMBO was amazed by the Poor Boy and my Reuben was very good but the dish that stood out was the black bean soup. Arriving at the station in plenty of time the baggage got checked. There are new limits beginning October 1 and they were hardcore about enforcing the current regulations. One of the bags came in at 43 pounds -7 under the fifty pound limit. The other three were under 40. I was hauling a lot of photography gear and a spotting scope the three fairly heavy tripods.

When #5 arrived on time, the walk out to the train was pretty long, with car 531 almost to the end of the consist. There we met Robert, who would be our gracious SCA for the journey. He was a very pleasant and efficient man who had plied the trade for 23 years. We settled into the Roomette and smiled as we passed through Monmouth. Many a time I had taken this destination, no longer a stop but grateful for the education they provided.

#5 (28) Westbound California Zephyr 

Rolling across the mighty Mississippi you have to be impressed with the power of the river. Its broad expanse made me wonder about those who had crossed it before. Coming down into Burlington I remember out honeymoon trip so long ago where we hit a car and lost almost two hours. We had the last dinner seating well on our way to Osceola when we were seated. The Amplastic lacked the romance of china but the steak wasn’t up the usual quality. SWMBO enjoyed the Salmon. The service was good and what a pleasure it was to just roll across the country.

Next Stop:Burlington

1. The Backstory

How we came to travel west again

I have written in other places some of the details for my quest to revisit the places Mother and Father took me in my youth and to let my charming bride Mary, She Who Must Be Obeyed (SWMBO) see for herself these marvelous places. Not quite Don Quixote but there are windmills nonetheless,

We were never hearty travelers. We had friends with a place in Hilton Head and would go there for a week. After fifteen years this got stale. No matter how wonderful Oyster Reef is, you can only play it so many times. Then the folks started charging for the place and we just quit going.

In 2013 we decided to take a cruise. Our big problem and anyone who has ever cruised understands this: we don’t drink very often, we don’t gamble, and I buy all my watches from my personal jeweler Alan Terry in Jackson. We enjoyed the stops the ship made. I will remember forever how nice a tour we got from Jeff Pinder in the Bahamas and the tour of Ernest Hemingway’s house in Key West but getting there wasn’t any fun.

I have always loved trains. As a child we frequently took the train from Chicago to Glenwood Springs. When we would go in the winter father would get in the large heated pool then jump out into the snowbanks surrounding them. I remember the old railway service with linen and silver. In the 80’s I oft traveled to Apple via the Zephyr, and took SHMBO on her first train trip to California for our honeymoon. It was slightly marred because the Cardinal engine ran out of fuel in Indiana. This unexpected six hour layover didn’t dampen the memory of fifteen feet of snow on Donner Pass.

When I survived my second major head and neck cancer surgery I realized I had all these places to show Mary. Places I wanted to go back to. I can relate to Henry VIII lamenting in the Tudors that one thing a King can’t buy is more time on Earth. Mother had always been this icon, full of ideas, full of inspiration and when she got Alzheimer’s that all washed away. It was gone. For my own purposes I wanted to remember smiling with a glass of bourbon on the veranda of the Many Glacier Hotel. I wanted to relive going out on the Yellowstone boardwalks at dawn so we could see Grand Geyser. Hear in my mind her stories of Father and her driving all-round the west. Putting my hands in the wagon ruts at South Pass remonstrating me to remember the tens of thousands who had suffered getting this far and those who never lived to tell her tale.

Last year Glacier was our destination, and SWMBO marveled at the view from our veranda at Many Glacier just as Mother had. I immediately began planning the next excursion to Yellowstone.

I wish I had kept a journal as a child. My memory is I was in Wonderland three times. The first was 1959 before the Earthquake because I can remember how personal the news of that was when it happened. I believe the next time we visited was 1963 and mother lamenting the loss of the old Canyon Hotel. My memory of that trip was her screaming at Father near Dunraven Pass regarding the drop off.

In 1968 is the year I went out with her geyser gazing and her little geyser notebook. I also have a memory of a hootenanny at Old Faithful. I marveled how the old kids, those working at the park could have so much fun singing. The worst memory was on the last trip. There was a bear jam, and some fool about ten cars up held a sandwich out the window of his car. Not for long actually as the bear ate the sandwich and the hand.

SWMBO loves wildlife, a weakness of Glacier but strength of YPK. It became a focus for this trip. I love photography so animate or inanimate makes no difference. We enjoyed the boat rides at Glacier so wanted to make sure they are part of this journey. Xantera’s food does not match the scenery surrounding there service, but formal meals at Lake and Old Faithful are on the dance card. We loved the Red Bus Tour to Logan Pass at GPK so YPK versions were added. We are not hikers but rather “strollers” (short distance little elevation change) and included those in the plans. Although the itinerary would be detailed it could be changed at any time for any reason.

Starting with some Deja vu stops we planned only to get as far as Champaign – five hours – the first night. We could spend the morning packing and leisurely get started. The next day I wanted to stop in Yates City having taught school there for five years in the seventies with a 4 PM arrival in Galesburg to catch the Zephyr.

The journey would be by train with a renter. I broke my 20 year no fly rule for the cruise, and even though the anxiety was nowhere near the 1980’s I think I will take the train, thank you very much. Although EB was delayed last year, we got another steak out of it and enjoyed every minute of it. The California Zephyr (CZ) seems to be the train of struggle this year. Track work in the Rockies re-routed it and floods in God’s Country (aka Iowa) delayed it but not to my dismay. The 11 PM arrival in Salt Lake City had me make a hotel reservation with picking up the renter the next day. If it was running more than five hours late I could call and cancel the hotel and just sleep in the roomette. Not the best but very workable.

The quickest route from SLC is to West Yellowstone but because we were going to Grand Teton later I made my great circle start at Lake. I see no added pain in driving to Madison then cutting across the hill to Canyon and down to lake. The Virginia Cascades were burned in my memory for some reason and had to be included. Another pass through the Hayden Valley shouldn’t be that painful. I remember Mother relishing the meal at the Lake Hotel, and even though we couldn’t get a room (12 months out ) at the Hotel, we took a cabin and a dinner reservation as solace. If we could make it to Storm Point in time for the 4 PM Ranger Tour it would be a plus.

Day two would start off with a scenic cruise (aka boat ride) on Lake Yellowstone then back up the Hayden to the Southern Rim. Box lunches (something Mother always advocated) would allow us to eat on our timetable picking the backdrop for whatever sandwich they provide. Wildlife would get a shot at the end of the day with the formal “Lamar Valley Wildlife Excursion.”

The next morning would start with the North Rim, again acquiring lunches and heading toward Roosevelt. An early arrival was planned to catch the “Old West Dinner Cookout” which a colleague of mine actually worked for two summers. The only morning I wanted a five AM start was the next, as we would drive out through Lamar and along the Beartooth to the Vista turnout and back. The early worm photographs the bird, bison, bear and whatever else wanders along. The day would finish at Mammoth.

There is an interesting loop trail at Mammoth which would start the next day. Road Work to Norris would eat at least a half hour of the time, so the Journey to Old Faithful had nothing hard and fast. I scheduled the “Twilight on the Firehole” tour for that night as well as the OF Dining Room. OF day two would cover whatever we missed on the first.

Departing to Grand Teton the following day would be leisurely with several strolls near Coulter Bay on the radar. Making the 2:45 Ranger Tour at Mentor’s would be nice, then just a good meal. Our last GT would start with a Breakfast cruise then work back down towards Jackson. The final day of the trip entails a return to Salt Lake via several Oregon Trail sites. My hands are going back in the wagon ruts. The late (3 AM) departure doesn’t thrill me but two days on the Zephyr plus the ride through the Canyon does.

All of this planning relied heavily on the talents of Judy and Candy at AAA in Jackson (OH) whose talents have served me all these long years. I have developed a trust and admiration for their work and the AAA membership fee each year gets the most bang for my buck of any recreational dollar spent. They have taught themselves Amtrak and do it well.

I devote what some might consider an abnormal amount of research in the planning of these adventures. As I do at work I plan as if the trip were a funnel. I want to consider all of the possibilities, outlining them in fairly specific detail, so I know what I want to do. A fifteen mile leg of the Grand Loop might have ten stops although I might only actually visit at three of them. This allows me to funnel the data into an eventual plan.

Technology has played a role in my life for a long time. This summer I am excited to compare the performance of the $30/day Gaper Guide as opposed to the $5 Gypsy Yellowstone app. Both are highly touted as travel tools providing narrative and direction of those things worthy of a view or a stop. I doubt neither can be as detailed as Bohanan’s Yellowstone Mileposts but time will tell.

Each journey starts at Trip Advisor. No better lay of the land is presented than the numerous Trip Reports. A file is opened where I cut and paste the highlights as preparation for the detailed itinerary. The snippets get organized by place and give me a good lay of the land. This is how I paint the picture of those faint memories from long ago.

The beginning is what I want to see. Old Faithful (duh) Grand Canyon et. Al. This then provides an idea of how long I need to spend in a location and where is the best place to stay, in terms of proximity. Soon a 10,000 foot view emerges with a start and an end and a rough idea of what happens in the middle.

National Park venues need to be booked a year out if you are sincere in the accommodations you want. I missed the Xantera boat of being thirteen months out and only got half of my first choices at the twelve month mark. Not a deal breaker and in some ways some pleasant surprises. Trip Advisor reviews and asking questions in the Forums hone the edge on the blade. Because I travel by train I have to figure out the logistics of Amtrak relevant to my plans but those reservations can only be made in an eleventh window. Combined with my good friends at the Amtrak Unlimited Forum I work out rail oriented details. As an example I thought it best to leave and return Amtrak at Emeryville for my 2016 travels to Yosemite. Several AU folks pointed out that Sacramento would serve me better so indeed I followed their suggestion.

With the reservation game plan, Judy works her magic. I add other venues, such as an extra day for South Pass / Oregon Trail this summer. I think the perfect trip is ten to twelve days, so begin to spread things out. Glacier ended up being seven days, but two of those nights were solely to match the Amtrak schedule. This year is a tad longer, six nights in YP and two in GT with a day tacked on at the start for Old Home Week and one night burned waiting for the train in Salt Lake. It will take fourteen total days but all at a leisurely pace. Remember there needs to be time to set up the folding chairs and just look at the bison.

This year is fairly straight forward, out and back but next years’ soiree combines two stops with two different approaches. Two just “get there” I could leave Flagstaff, bustittue over to the San Joaquin then up to Yosemite. I will take a little longer, go all the way to LA so I can take the Coast Starlight north to Sacramento / Yosemite. It may make the journey a little longer but also worth the time and the extra expense of a sleeper to enjoy the Pacific Parlor car.

This highlights one of my maxims: I am only doing this once. It means something to get a room at the Many Glacier hotel with a veranda. It was like $60 more a night for this, but after SWMBO saw it once, it was worth it. Conversely I chose to spend our nights at the Lodge at the Falls in Yosemite at half the rate of Ahwanee. We can go over there and enjoy dinner just as we can walk from the Old Faithful Snow Lodge to the Inn and go ooh ahh. At $250/night it still isn’t Tom Bodett leaving the light on.

The Yellowstone Library - Resources Evaluated

Forgive me but with almost forty years as a librarian and Certified Federal Records Manager I relish research.

Collecting, organizing and delivering information are in my blood and I would like to share my efforts with you, hopefully providing some tools you can use to make your time on your Yellowstone journey more enjoyable.

Note:this page last updated March 17th, 2015.

This is some of the the introduction i used for my Glacier Journal of last year and it still applies:

I am glad I am not rich, because I could spend the rest of my life traveling. Last year I decided on a significant adventure each year. The first effort was cruising and because I don’t drink, gamble or buy my watches from anyone other than Alan Terry in Jackson it was fun but less than the end all or be all. It was our first, and unless we take a river cruise on the Mississippi or some other down sized vessel, our last.

This next summer my cancer came back, and I had major head and neck surgery on the other side. A balancing act. Chemo and rad were much worse than last time, and I started remembering the marvelous trips my parents took my on as a child. At the time I hated them, but now they are hallowed ground.

My dad taught in a trade school, and only had the month of August off. On the last day of school we would load up the car and off we went west for two to three weeks of pure traveling. The first night we always made Omaha, not a mean feat in pre-interstate driving from Chicago. Then it was Glacier or Yellowstone or the Grand Canyon or great uncle Charlie’s in Mount Shasta and everything in between. My parents, when single in the 30’s had traveled the west extensively, and there is no question they were re-living whatever those memories were.

I remember the falls of the Yellowstone from the hotel that I guess no longer exists. I remember the view from Banff and Lake Louise and the Many Glacier hotel. I remember putting my hands in the ruts of the Oregon Trail at South Pass. I wanted to see some of that again.

I have organized the information by type.

Books include both paper and Kindle and Pdf downloads.
Web resources may include complimenting android applications.  
Android applications work on both my LG phone and Asus tablet. 
Maps include paper, web and CD. 

Books

Modern Titles

Most Valuable Titles

In my mind the essential titles, for planning an itinerary can be ranked in this way

          10,000 foot Moon Lonely Planet Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks 

          1,000 Foot Chapple - Yellowstone Treasures

          100 Feet Bohannon  - Yellowstone Mileposts 

IF I could only buy one title it would be Bohannon although it is sad it is only available in paper. It really needs to be electronic. I thoroughly appreciate Chapple with the difference being the level of detail in the former.  Both could serve the purpose of planning a journey well while Moon does have information about Grand Teton and if you had to have both in one this would work.

Yellowstone Mileposts  in paperback published in 2014 written by Thomas P. Bohannan . It was also an Amazon Editor’s Favorite Books of the Year and got a five star review for good reason. It truly is “The visitor’s point-to point guide to the world’s first national park.”

The title is a collection of road logs following the loop road from North Entrance around the park. It includes a log for US 191 which runs through the park but is not part of the loop.  There is also a log for each of the miscellaneous roads to the same level of detail as the loop.

The second half is a description of each of the developments in the park.  It includes a detailed map of every structure for each development and a history describing the evolution of the area from a building perspective. This title is chunk full of history.  What appears as an afterthought is the appendices of phone numbers, the location of public toilets (try driving around without this!) and a listing of the picnic areas and camp grounds. The index is unmatched and a pure librarian’s joy.

The maps are not the strength of the title save for those of the developments.  There is an awesome Chronology showing the development of the hotels, camps & lodges, general stores, photo shops (an homage to Haynes) and other facilities.  This is one of two paper books I am actually taking with me on the trip. The list of references is very complete.  If you only get one, get this one

Yellowstone Treasures: The Traveler's Companion to the National Park [Kindle Edition]
  by Janet Chapple was recommended by almost everyone. I got the Kindle edition (if only the rest of the reference tools had this option ! This kind of information I found nowhere else:

The introduction starts with an overview of the park roads but also includes Best Sights of Yellowstone, Driving Distances and a Key to the Symbols Used. It is followed by Key to the Approach Roads highlighting sights on the roads to the park. There are numerous maps and illustrations throughout the work, something not included in Bohannan.

The meat of the work is the Road Logs and Destinations giving a mile by mile, attraction by attraction passage de park.  Some of the descriptions go on for more than a page often highlighting the geology or history of a location.  Where appropriate the standard symbols for amenities appear. Photographs often appear and although they are not awesome examples they adequately convey the scene.

Natural and Human History is a fairly thorough overview of the Geology, a Chronology Since 1800 and  Living Things:  a Yellowstone Sampler.  The later describes from microbes to bears and a tons of flowers to be encountered.  Travel Tips is an alphabetically arranged from accessibility to winter visits.

There is also a a wonderful bibliography that is a gold mine. It lead me to many of the older works I was totally unaware. Perhaps something a librarian would worry about, but the Index is awesome. 

Lonely Planet Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks February 1, 2012 by Bradley Mayhew Kindle $9.99.

This is my first experience with Lonely Planet and I thoroughly enjoyed it. In fact of all the “Guides” I looked at this is perhaps the best introduction with enough meat on the bone to plan a first time trip.

LPY&GTNP begins with a list of ten top experiences. They pick wildlife in Lamar, followed by the Upper Geyser Basin, Jackson Lake, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Climbing Grand Teton (way above my skill level) and ends with the Beartooth. The “If You Like” features is a ten thousand foot view of Wildlife, Thermal Features, Scenic Drives, Backcountry Trips, The Good Life, Winter, Learning, The Wild West and the Adrenaline Rush – clinging, white-water rafting, paragliding zip lines (all above my skill level).

For those who prefer a calendar approach LPY&GTNP accommodates. Little did I know admission to the reenactment of Custer’s Last Stand in June 25th was free?

The itineraries section, to steal a line from Claude Raines, “rounds up the usual suspects’ not that the “grand loop” can be avoided . They suggest a one day loop for Yellowstone South, Yellowstone North, four days Jackson Hole &Tetons, Teton in a Day, One week Yellowstone to Paradise (includes the Beartooth) and a four day Yellowstone “Big Loop”.

The activities section covers hiking, cycling, rafting, canoeing, fishing, wildlife watching, horseback riding, nature walks, snowboarding and skiing arranged by season. our interests are hiking (easy day hiking or as I call it “strolling”) and nature watching. 

 They do a nice job of linking to individual hikes. These descriptions include duration, distance, difficulty, elevation change, start and finish, nearest junction and a summary. The information in the other sections seems as robust, but I can only remember Father fly fishing on the Gallatin 45 years ago – falling over and stripping to his skivvies to stay warm.

A section for “Travel with Children (something I haven’t had experience with for thirty years) provides interesting advice and tips. The highly touted “Junior Ranger” program is highlighted along with the Grand Adventure, Yellowstone Wildlife Olympics and Young Scientist Program. The Children’s Highlight list includes Adventure, Entertainment, Dining, Rainy Day Refuges and Coolest Camps and a section on safety. Travel with Pets, something total virgin to me, is covered. A list of accommodations for pets is provided.

The “On The Road” section is split between the parks. The usual suspects are covered but they include something I had not heard of the Bechler region. LPY&GTNP organizes this section into Sights, Driving , Day Hikes, Overnight Hikes, Cycling, Other Activities. Further sections are provide for Sleeping, Eating & Drinking, Shipping and Getting Around.

Each section startsoff with a brief overview. Some regions receive considerably more detail than others. Lake has three paragraphs Canyon has six – including a very nice map. My knowledge of GTNP is significantly less than the northern big brother I ended up learning a lot.

There is a section on “Understand Yellowstone and Grand Teton” discussing the history, geology, wildlife and conservation efforts in the parks. There is a lot of detail though not to the extent of the complete tomes of Haines History or Bryan’s Geysers.

The “Survival Guide” section is basic A-Z reference from accommodations to work. The Transportation section covers air and land (including my preference Amtrak) with bicycle and bus. Clothing & Equipment ranges from clothing to footwear and socks through tents, tarps and sleeping bags. I intend to use none of the latter

Nicely linked to complete and thorough details.

It is a nice feature that many of the maps are pre-loaded

so you need not have a connection to view them. There are some good checklists, which un-seasoned travelers may find very helpful. A list of local outfitters for gear and boats is included. I would thought they might use more hyperlinks, but understanding the fluidity of the web I have some sympathy why there were not included.

Perhaps the biggest limitation is the lack of an index and perhaps that is the librarian coming out in me although the Kindle search works well. It has a table of contents, but the old librarian has habits that are hard to break.

If I were to purchase a single “travel guide” I would purchase this one.


The Moon Handbooks
I really liked the Moon Handbook Guide to Glacier so I purchased Moon Yellowstone & Grand Teton: Including Jackson Hole by Don Pitcher. It too earned the Amazon Favorite book award with four and a half stars.  Currently She Who Must Be Obeyed is ingesting it and I shall review it on her completion.

The Moon Montana & Wyoming: Including Yellowstone & Glacier National Parks by Carter G. Walker (Kindle) is really a regional guide. Interesting but not essential.  It is another 10,000 foot view.
Moon Yellowstone & Grand Teton: Including Jackson Hole (Moon Handbooks) Paperback – May 14, 2013by Don Pitcher is completely different from the former titles. When I call it a "10,000" foot view it truly is a regional guide not just the parks. It does contain some very useful park info, perhaps the best description (and maps) of the Upper, Lower and Midway geyser basins. Where Bohanon and Chapple take you step by step, Pitcher is much more narrative.

Of the 457 pages, 122 pages are devoted to YPK, 53 to GTT100 to Jackson hole and the remainder to "Gateways to the Park. There is extensive information about lodging, eating and activities, items for the most part non-germane for the other two. This title also has far superior trail descriptions. The maps aren't frequent enough, and fail to detail items mentioned in the text. I found it ironic that seemingly every restaurant in Jackson Hole was mentioned but the Top of the World on the Beartooth got no ink whatsoever.





Moon Guide Map of Greater Yellowstone

I would suggest that if you are interested in activities and accoutrements this is the tile for you . If you want a Yellowstone guidebook with enough meat to do some serious route planning Chapple and Bohannon are far superior.

National Geographic Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks Road Guide: The Essential Guide for Motorists (National Park Road Guide) Paperback – – January 26, 2010 by Jeremy Schmidt.  A driving guide needs to be well organized and concise and this title fits that bill.  It is designed for the navigator to follow along a route being traveled. A long and narrow lightweight (physical) publication with an easy to read map on your left and a narrative on your right it will be in the front seat of our renter.  Take a highlighter to transfer the must sees’ from your other investigation and off you go.

Photographing Yellowstone National Park

Photographing Yellowstone National Park: Where to Find Perfect Shots and How to Take Them (The Photographer's Guide) Paperback – June 17, 2007 by Gustav W. Verderber

I purchased this on the recommendation of Peache Bell, and to be fair I would consider this to be a non-essential purchase.  The premise is to provide an guide to photographing the park and it does, but a lot of it is common sense.   The title takes you around the grand loop with a series of detailed scenarios for grabbing great snaps. Those descriptions are primarily based on time of day with frequent ideas for camera settings.

There some suggested itineraries for six primary locations with recommendations for making a day shooting them. The closing table of technical specifications details camera bodies, f-stops, film, tripod and meter.  It is well written and interesting but not required.

The Geysers of Yellowstone, Fourth Edition T. Scott Bryan (Kindle Edition)

One of the Blog readers suggested this title and if you want the Doctoral Thesis on all things Geyser in Yellowstone, this is your title. 

It is extremely thorough and from what i can gather, covers every geyser in the park.  It opens with an informative chapter "About Geysers" which lays down in great detail how geysers work. Then he provides some of the geologic background on the Yellowstone geyser basin, including the impact the many local earthquakes have had on their activity. 
This is followed by a general discussion of they geyser basins in the park and the relationship between them. The next twelve chapters take the park basins one by one, with descriptions and index maps for each. This index include the name of they geyser, a reference to the particular map it is displayed on with interval, duration, and height. Bryan include un-named geysers in this list

He concludes with an extensive  chapter covering the the Geyser Fields of the World. The index of geyser and hot springs is awesome, and with the Kindle edition the hyper links included increase the value of this version considerably.

When I first picked this up I immediately thought of a Woody Allen film of my youth "Everything You Wanted to Know About -". It is difficult to make writing about physical phenomena interesting, but Bryan makes it much better than expected.  Having said that, unless you are an absolute geyser freak I am not sure of it's value. I also wish he had included the GPS coordinates (is my Bohanon bias showing?) at least for the major attractions.  For simply knowing what geysers to look for perhaps Chapple does a better job but for detailed information on the a particular geyser Bryan can't be beat.

A Ranger's Guide to Yellowstone Day Hikes Paperback – April 1, 2000
by Roger Anderson and Carol Shively Anderson (used $4.98)

She Who Must Be Obeyed and I are not hikers. She has issues from ankle surgery (actually making the trek from Swift current to Josephine in a cast boot) and I have my trachea limiting my oxygen intake severely. We enjoyed the stroll on the Trail of the Cedars which is as flat as any Illinois prairie. Anything more than that is out of bounds.

We also realize that you have to get out of the car and out of the parking lot to see some of the good stuff. This title I believe will give us the information we need to choose the right strolls in our upcoming adventure.

The title is well organized. It is well indexed and divided by junction. It has good clear maps and a concise “Trail Tips” section that convinced me we are getting Bear Spray on arrival. A wonderful two page “Choosing a Trail” arranging the hikes by difficulty. A series of color plates illustrate each journey

Each hike begins with a description and some basic information – Difficulty, Distance, Elevation, Duration, Best Time of Year, Trailhead location, Direction, Special Attention, and very thorough and extensive Naturalist notes. The hiking directions prepare you for what you will see and give clear turn by turn directions. It details variations you can make in the hike and where the rough spots are.

Although I had seen mention of the Storm Point trail, I had never really considered it until reading their description. We may have sometime after landing at Lake the first night this may well fit right in. We will beware of the bison grazing near the pond warning.

The cover claims that the title now has “GPS Compatible Maps” but I failed to see a reference that even came close to one. Again the title was paper not Kindle, but other than those two blemishes I thoroughly enjoyed Yellowstone Day Hikes and am glad to have obtained it.


   
 Undaunted Courage: Meriwether Lewis, Thomas Jefferson and the Opening of the American West [Kindle Edition] 
Stephen Ambrose has always impressed me and this was a great read. It is described as the “definitive” title on the venture and I found easy to pick up and put down, spending more than three months reading in completing it. If you are going to pick one non-Yellowstone title for perspective, I would pick this.

Here is his map of the Traveler's Rest part of the journey, so close to being in Wonderland:

While I am on a Lewis & Clark path I would remiss not to mention the wonderful online resources of the “The Journals of Lewis and Clark Expedition” from the University of Nebraska Lincoln sponsored by the National Endowment for the Humanities. I got lost in there for hours and hours and hours.

Whether it is reading the journals, nicely broken into monthly segments with provenance and descriptions this is well organized and presented. The librarian in me is in a happy place. Extensive biographies of the entire expedition and awesome Volume introductions that put the journal selection in perspective are presented. The maps are great and original, nicely reproduced.

Historical Titles 

The titles that follow are primarily historical in nature, giving one a glimpse of the park and the world of the park at the time they were written . Much of the content is still very relevant and some of the descriptions of Wonderland are as good, if not better than their modern counterparts.

The Great Divide Travels in the Upper Yellowstone in the Summer of 1874 Earl of Dunraven 1876 (Free, PDF, Google Books Free)

Dunraven opens with a marvelous appreciation of the 1872 act creating Yellowstone, saving it from the disgrace of Niagara and other wonders of nature placed in capitalist capture. In terms of my old tutor mentor Dr. Ur ban, this tome is good original source material.

He was given advice and counsel for the journey by none other than Hayden who provided “details of routes and distance, advising me as to guide and means of transportation.”

He uses the nomenclature of the time “Wonderland” to describe the details of his journey.

Foreshadowing Dee Brown (Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee) Dunraven laments “upon the manners, customs, rights and wrongs of the much abused, long suffering, and little-understood Red Indian race.”

As he describes the five routes to reach Wonderland he opens with the “regular stage line running from Ogden to Virginia City” which up to that point can be performed most comfortably in one of Pullman’s cars.” Count me in!!

His pension for Native American affairs fills the work with running commentary on local Indian affairs. One needs to remember his travels occurred two years before Little Bighorn. Having some interest in these matters (one of my favorite titles as an undergraduate was Helen Hunt Jackson’ s 1895 A Century of Dishonor which had as it’s mantra “look upon your hands ! they are stained with the blood of your relations.”)

With apologies to Carl at UPS – “I digress”. I am amazed that Dunraven makes as much about loading the pack animals as Chittenden does. So much for just loading up the back of the Tahoe and heading out.

Yellowstone National Park, Or, Ho For The Great American Wonderland Northern Pacific Railroad By William Wallace Wylie 1882 99 pp. (Free, PDF, Google Books)

This is rather amazing,,, a tour guide much like the modern day tour guides that circles you around the park from Mammoth to Faithful to the Lake to the Canyon returning to Mammoth – all to the benefit of the Northern Pacific with all the author wanting to hear that the work is “plain, truthful and practical.”
          Here is his geyser  frequency table
                                                                                                                          

“One of the greatest difficulties in the management of tourist – in his eagerness to get to the Upper Geyser Basin he neglects to visit thoroughly the Lower Basin – saying he will take it in when he gets back. But when he has visited the Upper Basin he does not care for anything that can be found in the Lower Basin.”

Most descriptions are very completely, often several paragraphs long. The one for Grand Geyser goes on for two pages and the prose description is wonderful.

What I found most fascinating about Wylie are the closing ten pages of ads for Bozeman establishments. Not quiet sure what a tourist needs a bookstore or a painter for, but the services were apparently needed.

Yellowstone National Park Northern Pacific Railroad 1883 40 pp. (Free, PDF, Internet Archive)
This patently promotional Northern Pacific time screams the praises of “the only convenient method by which Eastern tourists may reach the remarkable Wonderland of America.”

Anyone who has traveled can concur that it is “one vast wheat field to Jamestown” and Mandan is without doubt the the “Omaha of the West”. Hyperbole about anything west of Saint Paul and east of Glacier is definitely in order. It describes retracing the path from from Canyon to Norris to reach the lake, because that piece of the Grand Loop had yet to be developed.

I thought you might enjoy their map ..

There is an excellent description of Excelsior which has been pretty much dormant since 1890.

The tome includes a description of “Pyramid Park of Dakota” or the badlands. The stage tariff table is interesting because you had to backtrack, listing the journey from the railroad terminus five miles from Mammoth and back at 181 miles and $25. The hints for travelers start with remembering to “tip the sleeping-car porter” and ending “politeness is not thrown away even on a railroad train.”


Official Guide to the Yellowstone National Park A Manual for Tourists By William C. Riley 1890 140 pp. 140 pp.(Free, PDF, Google Books)

This Is subtitled “A manual for tourist being a description of the Mammoth Hot Springs, the geyser basins, the cataracts, the canons and the other features of the New Wonderland”.

It opens with the “Rules and Regulations” (remembering in the early years it was a struggle to keep the visitors from taking their relics, killing the animals, and burning it down.

Riley provides a history of the park, including a copy of the enabling legislation. He summarizes the Reynolds expedition of 1859-60; DeLacey 1863; Cook & Folsom 1869; Washburn 1870; Barlow & Heep 1871; Hayden 1871 & 72; Jones 1873; and Ludlow 1875. He details the northern entrance path via Livingston and the Northern Pacific proclaiming the “superb mountain views.”

The next chapter focuses on Mammoth Hot springs with detailed descriptions of Cleopatra. The medicinal powers of the Gardiner River Hot Springs although with a disclaimer that the healing powers “have never been tested. The trout fishing is described as “extraordinary.”

His “Grand Tour” starts at Mammoth and he heralds the road building activity. He describes the road and stops as he circles the park. Road improvements such as the new road “From Great Falls by way of the canon and Tower Falls to Yancey’s will save many miles of doubling and allow a longer time than heretofore at places of transcendent interest.”

The trip to Norris begins, sans mile markers. A description of Norris is provided but the new road rom Norris to Great falls and allows the tourist “to make the journey between Mammoth and the Grand Canyon between the hours of 8AM and 3PM reaching the Norris Hotel for dinner (we call it lunch).

The tour continues along the Virginia Cascades and Riley proclaims that “during the summer of 1889 accommodations will be much improved with the erection of new and commodious hotel at this point.” A very descriptive review of the canyon follows moving past the Painted Cliffs and then on to the Lake espousing the glory of Yellowstone Lake Trout to what we now call the West Thumb basin. He travels past Mary’s Lake descending down the East Fork of the Firehole River.

There is a detailed description of the Lower basin and he moves to Midway with an equal amount of detail. Old Faithful, then as now is the centerpiece of the park and his description of the Upper Geyser Basin. His two page description of an eruption of the mother of geysers includes the quaint observation that “General Sheridan’s men in 1882 found that linen and cotton fabrics were uninjured by the action of the water but woolen clothes were torn to shreds.”

Riley returns the visitor via Norris past the Gibbon Falls and into the Monument Geyser Basin with a warning that if the journey is made on horseback “great caution must be exercised lest the horse’s feet be scalded by the boiling springs that line the creek..

He proceeds from Mammoth to “Yancey’s” (Roosevelt) to Tower Falls and describes the bridle road to the summit of Mount Washburn which can be ascended “without greatly distressing the animals.” His description of the modern Beartooth Highway “leads through magnificent mountain scenery. “

Riley has a chapter on the “Fauna” and one on the “Flora” of the park. Several appendices are included with elevations, climate, a rate chart for “Special Conveyances. “Those holding $45, $40 or $110 Tickets are charged $10/ day for a a two horse carriage accommodating three people.”

Saddle horses or pony are $1 for the first hour, 50 cents per additional hour or $2.50 a day. The work concludes with about twenty of blank “Tourist’s Memoranda” obviously intended for notes.

I found it odd that there were no descriptions of the accommodations, but I can only imagine they were happy to be out of the rain with a warm supper. I just think of all of the posts on Trip Advisor asking if the cabins are better than the lodge.

In sum the descriptions are much more detailed and complete the found in most modern guidebooks for the locations chosen.

The Yellowstone National Park Historical and Descriptive by Hiram Martin Chittenden 1895  (Free, PDF, Google Books)

This tome is extremely important because it is the first true history of the park to date. A member of the 1870 Hayden party, he is also given primary recognition for the creation of the part. This is an fascinating quarter century look back on the Park, it’s creation, and the interceding years.  Dedicated to John Colter and James Bridger “Pioneers in the Wonderland of the Upper Yellowstone” is really an homage to the past.

Chittenden was US Military (Corp of Engineers) wizard, going on to higher glory but always keeping YPK in his heart. The title has two principal sections. The Historical section covers the period from Indian Occupancy through the National Park Protective act. The Descriptive section focuses on geology, forests and fauna then dives into a tour guide broken into sections we all recognize. There are some very interesting appendices about the geographical names in the park which I am sure resolved many a bar room argument through time. If you were interested in one historical title, this is it.

HaynesGuide, Yellowstone Park, Illustrated by Albert Brewer Guptill (1902) is one of a series published from 1890-1966 by the official park photographers. I got this version free on google books as a PDF but there were also e-reader versions available.

 “A Practical Handbook containing accurate and concise description of the entire park region, maps, distances, altitudes and geyser time tables all necessary information profusely illustrated.”

The first 110 pages are descriptive and informative, much of the information still relevant. I became fascinated with the seven pages of the park camp grounds names in order from 1 to 23.  

I really enjoyed this quote from page 29: “Beaver Lake is becoming alive with numerous water fowl, the passing of carriages not seeming to alarm them.” He also mistakenly refers to Truman Everts as “Evarts” throughout the text. Everts became lost on the 1870 Washburn Expedition.

The narrative is clear, and has the same pattern as current guides – making the grand loop from Mammoth to Norris to the Firehole to the Lake to the Canyon back to Norris. I am glad I took the time to read it but I surely wouldn’t consider it essential if you are not interested in the historical perspective.

Diary of the Washburn Expedition to the Yellowstone and Firehole Rivers in the Year 1870 - by Nathaniel Pitt Langford 1905. (Free, PDF, Google Books)

This is good original source material, albeit published thirty-five years after the fact. IT details the second expedition to explore the park. Fairly detailed journal describes the journey from Fort Ellis, through the park and returning to Helena five weeks later. Some of the descriptions are fascinating. Some are profuse. Includes extensive detail on how they tried to rescue Truman Everts. Again not a necessary read but interesting as the “first eyes” (well almost) on the park.

Campbell's New Revised Complete Guide and Descriptive Book of the Yellowstone Park 1909 by Reau Campbell (Free, PDF, Google Books)

This isn’t the easiest read you will find, and organize in snippets. It does have some very interesting illustration I have not found in other source and there are a ton of them in this title. The section “Who’s Who and Why” is an eleven page potpourri of folks involved in the forty years of the park. The “Chronological” is very complete.

The description of “The Drive” is thorough and great for a modern day comparison. A joyous description of the “Lake Voyage” makes me jealous wondering if the current lake tour will match it. Details of the hotels that no longer exist are also fascinating. I am glad I worked my way through it. A nice alphabetical descriptive list of geysers by basin is included. If that were not enough this is a table of altitudes. The index is extensive as well.

I just wish the road were still open to the top of Mount Washburn so I could see what she describes. A faint feeling of jealousy arose when I read there were four rail routes to the park. Today all we can do is go to Salt Lake and rent a car.

Early History of Yellowstone National Park by Louis C. Crampton 1932 (Free, PDF, NPS)


History of the Construction of the Road System in Yellowstone National Park 1872-1966 Vol 1 by Mary Shivers Culpin (Free, PDF NPS)

Managing the Matchless Wonder A History of the Administrative Development in Yellowstone National Park 1872-1965 by Kiki Leigh Rydell and Mary Shiver s Culpin NPS 2006

My Data Strategy

Traveling in the Glacier and Yellowstone is not like taking a trip to Nashville for Brother in Law by Number Four daughter’s marriage. Wi-Fi is pretty much nonexistent and cell phone coverage is spotty. This means when checking into the lodge you may not have access to TripIt where the reservation number is stored. That great map app you are counting on to get you to the places you really want to see many not have a connection to work.

I always assemble a binder, using sheet protectors, with what I call level one data. A TripIt itinerary printout is in that binder. The printed Amtrak tickets are in that binder. A hard copy of reservations showing they are paid is there. The insurance documents for the renter – and my copy of the rental car contract go in there. Paper copies of maps are in the binder. My handicap placard is there. I carry the binder in my knapsack, which is almost always on my person or in the rental car.

For level two I either scan or print to pdf all of those documents creating an electronic copy. I store them not only on the drive of my tablet but up on my Google Drive so if have connectivity I have access. Some I also move to the memory card on my phone for reference.

When I have a signal, I use my phone or my tablet and the apps I have loaded on it. Last year on the Empire Builder my scanner decided to misbehave (rail junkies can listen to switch orders with relish) and my scanner radio app saved the trip ! After all you have to have something to do going across South Dakota. I don’t expect I will have a lot of that going on while in the park.

Web Resources

Trip Advisor
The single greatest resource I have used since discovering it in 2012 is Trip Advisor. They have never steered my wrong, Two principle resources come into play. The first are the reviews of lodging, restaurants and attractions. I can't tell you how many great places to stay, play and eat I have found there. I have added more than twenty five reviews to help those who may find it.  

As helpful as the reviews are the Forums are even more worthwhile.  This area allows folks to ask questions and seek advice.  I learned I could park my car without fear for ten days in Lacrosse or where to turn around on the Beartooth Highway. Post an itinerary and have those who have been their innumerable times critique it. Getting ready for Glacier I read more than 3,000 posts.  I looked at more than 7,000 of the Yellowstone posts and a thousand of the Grand Teton posts.  I also created perhaps two dozen for specific information 

I search information about an upcoming trip in three ways. I want comfortable lodging with good food. I am never returning to most locations again so I want the best lodging and don't mind paying for a good meal because I can eat mac and cheese at home.  I want to do interesting things within my limitations.  I am challenged physically with a bad titanium hip and a trachea from my cancer surgery.  If I am walking somewhere it is slow going. I hate heights, so things like the tram at Jackson Hol are immediately skipped.  She Who Must Be Obeyed (apologies to Horace) gutted it out like a trooper hiking between Swiftcurrent and Lake Josephine at Glacier, but other then Trail of the Cedars we did no other hiking in the hikers paradise.  We enjoy stopping at historical markers and our pace of travel reflects. Amtrak being late meant we got an extra meal.

We are not afraid to try things.  We never would have found the cafe at Johnson's campground with arguably one of the ten best meals I have ever had if I had not asked our Red Bus driver Keith if he knew of any place better than a steakhouse in Babb.  WE had suffered through the mediocre food at Many Glacier (too bad the food isn't as good as the view.)

What Trip Advisor allows me to do is look forward, see the impressions of others, and develop an outline.

Tripit
You can probably already tell I am rather anal about planning. My sainted father who was an accomplished cabinet maker raised me with "measure twice, cut once" and I have rather applied it to many facets of my life.  

This free online tool has may features. It allows you to import reservations via email. it allows you to share your plans - great for letting my daughter know my plan. It allows you to review previous plans to find phone numbers or other info about places you have been.

Southwest.Net

This is a very amazing website and this map junky loves their maps. It is trail oriented and provides a good overview of about forty trails, including photos of what you will see when you get there. It uses a star rating system and the overview for each gives you the distance and elevation change for the trail.

It also divides the park into quadrants, with a fairly complete summary for each. There is also some extensive photo galleries with some good stuff displayed. I am very glad I found this site.



Google Keep 
Google Keep is the master of my lists. I have a list for each suitcase. I have the leave the house list. I have the provisioning list after picking up the renter. If TripIt wasn’t so good at itineraries, I might use Keep for that purpose. Free is good and simple is simple. Both apply to this gem.

Android Applications

The problem I had in Glacier last summer that without a connection, some apps can be worth no more than the chip they are loaded on. It is one thing to use an app to plan something with a connection, another to use it in the raw world of no connection. In Glacier I had service on my Verizon phone in Many Glacier, East and West Glacier and I will be interested to see what happens in the wilds of Wyoming.

Yellowstone Outdoors an app from High Country Apps (free on Google Play) is very interesting indeed. Perhaps most interesting is a collaboration between the Yellowstone Park Foundation and area business. It truly is regional in nature, and covers

It has a feature to navigate to your location via GPS and when you have a signal (rare in the park) you can choose the type of map – or without a connection it uses a preloaded map.

It has four three basic elements: Go Explore, Search by Interest, and Resources.

Go explore presents you with a map which has a gazillion symbols for picnic areas, photo ops (like geysers), overlooks, trails. amenities (stores, lodging, stores, visitor centers,. When you tap on the icon a pop gives basic details, and the type of activities present. Tap on the info box and a page pops up with a photo, description, relevant web sites, activities and resources (links).

However, this smells like pay for play to me. I tried searching Jackson for the Buckrail lodge, were we are staying, and came up with zilch. Indeed there is no lodging shown for GT other than cabins.

You can search be interest – starting by picking a region and then one of the twenty-eight types of interest. When you ask it to show them it goes back to the map display for that region, but shows only the type of interest. A very intuitive way to filter.

The Resource feature is divided into three sections. BE AWARE provides info on weather, road conditions, water flows, wildfires, what to bring and more. TOURISM LODGING AND MORE provides pretty detailed info on things to do, lodging and special events in Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. This section links to other resources. CONDUCT AND CONSERVATION has good detail on rules, animals and a plethora of other good stuff you should know. I have no interest in getting a fishing license, but the app has the info you need.

ChimaniYellowstone National Park is very much like the Glacier version and is as good but rudiementary. A good interactive map, available offline (a good thing for the environ) that shows a plethora of attractions. The Auto Tour section has a good introduction section featuring geology, climate and ecosystem (among others). Then each driving section is arranged by attraction.  The hiking section givesenough to realize the type, distance, elevation and time. 

This is a sample screen from the National Park guide to give you an idea of look and feel

NPSYellowstone Geysers available for free from the National Park System has several interesting features. For the principals (Old Faithful, Grand, Castle, Great Fountain, Daisy and Riverside) it displays the next scheduled eruption. However it requires a data connection, and I will be interested in seeing how it functions in the field.  It also has geyser webcams, but they seemed to be turned off in November. The image I am getting is nothing like the known good image on the NPS Yellowstone website – not only is sun shiningthere is no snow,, but it does indicate the image will return on December 15th 2014. I will see if it works when I get to the Park in September.

Google Keep is the master of my lists. I have a list for each suitcase. I have the leave the house list. I have the provisioning list after picking up the renter. If TripIt wasn't so good  at itineraries, I might use Keep for that purpose.

MAPS

As usual the planning of this trip involves maps, maps and more maps. Kindly put you might say I am a map aficionado. She Who Must Be Obeyed might refer to it as an addiction.


I have always loved maps. In my closet as a kid I hand drew a large map of the neighborhood on my closet wall. I tried to teach myself scale. I included my friends abodes, the High School, Ernest Hemingway's boyhood home, Frank Lloyd Wright structures, and anything else that seemed important. After a putting a few girlfriend's home locations that soon became ex, I forwent that reference.


Rest stops on the interstate have never been safe because I always stopped for a the state supplied map. I try not to drive them crazy at AAA with my map obsession. You don't want to see my list of saved places on Google Maps.


Speaking of Google Maps, it has always upset me that there aren't better trip planning tools available from them. "Saved Places" is too linea. I want to click my mouse on A, B, &C and have GM give me the mileage and time point to point and total. I want to include notes, such as itinerary times. Pasting photos right on the map would be nice as well. Alas poor Eric, those feature don't exist.


For my foray back to Yellowstone I will use a mixture of paper, computer and web based maps to prepare for the adventure.


My Map Building Strategy
I have downloaded a few map apps, hoping to find nirvanah, but it too has escaped me even for a $5 fee. Currently I use a patchwork approach with Snagit, a wonderful graphic tool Snagitfrom Techsmith. I bought my fist version at least a decade ago and it is a godsend at work as well. If you have to clip / edit / paste anything you need this.

My research for all ventures is extensive research, a combination of Trip Advisor reviews and forums. For both Glacier last year, and Yellowstone this, I read thousands of questions, trip reports, and recommendations. The cream of this I actually screen scrape into word files which in turn become the itinerary points.

Combine this with some pretty extensive background reading (the Yellowstone Library page in this blog gives you an idea of those efforts) of not only books but web resources and the wealth of material available on Google Books. I have found some good stuff on the Android apps as well.

After my research gives me the plan, i start with a foundation map. I take a Google map and Snagit it into a PNG file (this work is not super technical, no need for a TIFF) that becomes the base layer where I then add notations et. al. Here is the YPK basemap:





I have left the Amtrak leg off, concentrating on the Salt Lake City loop. Because of the horrible train departure time of 3 AM it won't be a straight dash back but rather a loop that includes South Pass. I vividly remember as a child Mother telling me to put my hands in the wagon ruts. Something I must relive.


The next level is the park map I created. It details the journey daily.

Commercial Maps

If I were to admit to a fetish to be discussed in public, it might be my love of maps. You may not be aware of the work of Edward Tufte who is the Zen Master of the “Visual Display of Quantitative Information but maps can be some of the shining examples of clearly displaying information. Now you understand my zeal, and now here are the maps I used in planning.

National Geographic’s Yellowstone National Park adventures, Explorer 3D is advertised as “The ideal map software for planning your combines the precision and accuracy of our printed Trails Illustrated topographic maps with the award-winning TOPO custom mapping technology. The easy-to-use interface helps you quickly locate trails, create instant elevation “ and it is all, if not more than that. I love being able to zoom and mark a path. and annotate the . Although this is not an essential purpose, I use it considerably. Don’t forget print to PDF – map out what you want and create an archived copy to load on your devices.

This is the map I made for my exit from Jackson (based on Trip Advisor recommendations) taking me through Lander and South Pass on my return to SLC. You can add photos and links to the maps. Adding notes serves as a future reference too.

The only thing I don't like about the tool is the "travel tool." Rather than scrolling like most maps this tool gives you an arrow to navigate the map.

Scrolling is a little awkward – not using the standard Google Map scroll but rather a toolbar arrow that lets you “travel”. The longitude, latitude and GPS coordinate for the mouse location are always displayed. You can choose to import, export, setup automatic GPS, to a connected handheld device.

The route tool acts like a pencil allowing you to draw a trail. The trails are marked with dotted line, the roads are red and violets are,,,,,, Rivers and water features (waterfalls, lakes and springs) appear (shockingly) are in blue. Other features are black.

The zooms are levels 1&2 of the National Geographic Map – regional map – with little detail and levels 1&2 of the Trails Illustrated with tremendous detail. You can reduce the view by 25,33 or 50% or magnify it by 200, 300 or 400%. There is a centering tool that centers the map when a point is selected.

Amenities have sensible icons . Notes allow you to provide a label which you can select a symbol with the location, elevation, GPS Name and add a photo to boot. When you choose the compass tool to draw route you can include the distance, direction and elevation. The search tool works well for named features. You can display a grid (dimensions not indicated) on the map.

There is a thirteen page PDF of the Trail Illustrated map with generic park info. The “HELP” function is very extensive. It is a PDF as well. When I get done with my markup I save it and print to PDF so I can load it on my pad. I just wish I could run this app on my pad

Grand Teton National Park (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map) Map – Folded Map, January 1, 2008 $10.65 and Yellowstone National Park (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map) Map – Folded Map, January 1, 2012 $10.65

Save the content these maps are identical in size each being 25” x 37” YPK scale is 1:16,720 1 inch = 2 mi. with 100’ contour level. GTNP scale is 1:80,000 1 inch = 1.3 mi 100’ contour level. These maps are printed on waterproof, tear-resistant paper.

YPK is split in half (north / south) with a generous overlap. Robust legend includes trail summaries including length, elevation gain, hiking time and difficulty. Various other panels describe wildlife, thermal areas and backcountry hiking.

The GTNP map covers Jackson Hole, Jackson Lake, Colter Bay Village, Jenny Lake, Phelps Lake, Teton Crest Trail, Bridger-Teton National Forest, Caribou-Targhee National Forest, Gros Ventre Wilderness, Jedediah Smith Wilderness, and John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway. 

GTNP has the entire area on one side (including Jackson Hole) the reverse is a detailed map of the west
side of the park with a scale of 1 inch=.5 mi. from Granite Canyon to Leigh Lake.

As mentioned elsewhere we are not of the hiking ilk, other than the short easy 1-2 hour jaunts to get away from the parking lots. In terms of general orientation, finding locations mentioned in other tomes, and getting around these are essential maps. In terms of a hiking guide with trailheads and enough detail to use in the field I fear these would be lacking. Used in combination with National Geographic Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks Road Guide: The Essential Guide for Motorists I plan them to use them as my principal navigation tools.

Old Faithful: Yellowstone National Park SW (National Geographic Trails Illustrated Map) Map – Folded Map, January 1, 2012

The map is 25” x 36” YPK scale is 1:16,720 1 inch = 2 mi. with 100’ contour level. GTNP scale is 1:70,000 1 inch = 1.1 mi 50’ contour level. These maps are printed on waterproof, tear-resistant paper.

In essence this is takes an section of the larger YPK map described above and cranks the resolution. The greater detail provides the opportunity to identify the number of camping sites at the various primitive or horse campsites. There are more mileage points

Coverage of the Old Faithful area of Yellowstone National Park includes Heart Lake BMA, Pitchstone Plateau, Bechler Ranger Station, South Entrance, Teton Wilderness, John D. Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway, Jedediah Smith Wilderness, Winegar Hole Wilderness, Bechler Canyon, Cascade Corner, Firehole BMA, Shoshone Lake, Western half of Yellowstone Lake. Includes UTM grids for use with your GPS unit.

AAA Maps

I have sung the praise of AAA in other places, and I would never leave home without the help of my local agents Judy & Candy . They have some good resources and if I weren't such a map addict, they would serve for general navigation as good as the Nat Geo Trails Illustrated maps described above.

I actually secured three tools from them. I ordered a “Trip Tik” (8 ½” x 6”) for Salt Lake to YPK and return through Wyoming, a Colorado / Wyoming state map and the AAA Yellowstone / Grand Teton road map.

I liked the new format (wider) than the old “strip” maps of the Trip Tik. Mine ended up being 93 pages in a spiral bound format

It has some introductory 30,000 foot info and immediately I ran into a problem. The ability to select way points on the web based order form ended routing me up through Bozeman. Perhaps it is like using Google Maps – if a road is closed in the winter it won’t let you use it. So the TT got me to West Yellowstone then made the loop up to Livingston and back down to Mammoth. NOT. There version of the Grand Loop was screwy too. Basically I skipped forty-five pages. Luckily I know what to do in the park.

My exit strategy was based on the fact the train does not leave Salt Lake until three in the morning so I could use the day not only to tour GTNP but go to South Pass. As a child I visited there and I vividly remember mother putting my hands in wheel ruts carved in the rock at South Pass. I wanted to experience that again. The detail for this section of the trip is exactly what I wanted.

The Colorado / Wyoming map has each state on a side. The scale is 1 inch = 20 mi. I was easily able to lay out the return to SLC. This map also contained a fairly useful inset for TNP and GTNP.

The AAA Yellowstone / Grand Teton map is very good. YNP is in a scale of 1 inch = 4 mi GTNP is in a scale of 1 ½ inch = 3 mi. They both have a good level of detail although I had to resort frequently to my lighted magnifier to identify landmarks and way points.

No map had complete coverage of the Beartooth, and I had to rely on printed PDF versions of online resources. They covered to slightly east of the junction of the Chief Joseph

From Our Readers

After posting this Blog on Trip Advisor, some of my fellow enthusiasts made suggestions. I probably won't buy these, but it doesn't hurt to let you know others appreciated them

From Peach Belle
Here is another couple of good books for the photography enthusiasts- 

Photographer's Guide to Yellowstone & the Tetons: 2nd Edition Paperback by Joseph K. Lange (Author)

Photographing Yellowstone National Park: Where to Find Perfect Shots and How to Take Them (The Photographer's Guide) Paperback – June by Gustav W. Verderbe 

She also recommended the National Geographic "Essential Guide For Motorists" (see above)

From D0bby

Recommended the http://geysers.blogspot.com/ which I believe is the NPS referenced above. as well as the Verderbe title recommended by Peache Belle.

Yellowstone Expedition Guide: The Modern Way to Tour the World's Oldest National Park Spiral-bound by Charissa Reid

From Traveling Bear 47
"A Ranger's Guide to Yellowstone Day Hikes" by Roger and Carol Anderson.
Of all of the hiking trail books I have on Yellowstone, this one is my favorite because of the good descriptions, maps and photos.

Field Guide for Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks by Kurt F. Johnson.
My knowledge of Yellowstone flora and fauna is greatly improved because of this book. It covers geology, plants, animals, scat and other topics. I really like the format and the text and photos really help you distinguish which object or critter you are observing. I recommend it for both first time visitors and seasoned experts.

He also recommended Thomas Bohannan's "Yellowstone Mileposts" (see above)
Another great book to have along to answer questions. Many Yellowstone guides now feature a road logs but the road log section of this book describes a lot of unusual places that the curious visitor may see and want to know more about, along with all of the standard places covered by other guide books. The mileage and GPS coordinates are quite helpful.

The second section of the book gives a history of the visitor developments around the park, along with pointing out the locations where some of the long-gone historic structures used to be and explaining what all of the buildings are used for. This book would be a bit overwhelming and too detailed for the first-time visitor but for the curious long-time visitor, there are many detailed (and fun) explanations for things you have probably wondered about as you explore the park.

To Be Continued ...